Choosing Pond Plants
A pond without plants is like cake without icing. Pond plants fight algae, give fish a hiding place against predators, and beautify our own little slice of paradise to plunk down in at the end of a tiring day.
Dont smother your pond with plants, however. Start with half the surface area, and dont let them cover more than two-thirds to three-quarters at their growing peak. Overcrowding stresses them out, and hey it just looks bad!
Dont let the terms hardy and tropical throw you when choosing plants for your pond. Just remember that these terms refer to the environment in which the plant has originally been adapted and not to whether it can be thrown across the room or how well it looks in a fancy mixed drink.
Hardy pond plants, as a rule, can handle cold temperatures and frost. Of course, this is relative to your USDA agricultural zone, found here: http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html.
Ask your plant professional or check the plants label before taking home that plant that does great in Hawaii, but not so great in Maine.
Tropicals, on the other hand, pretty much hold true to what theyre called: They will take a nosedive if temperatures get much below 70 degrees, turning into a messy mush if it freezes.
But, ah, Grasshopper, there are ways to save even those hardy plants that arent quite up to a northern blizzard, as well as those tender-toed tropicals with which youve fallen madly in love.
Bury hardy pond plants, pot and all, into a south-facing part of your yard and cover with a thick, warm blanket of mulch. Or put them into a garage or basement, making sure theyre kept wet and have good air circulation.
Tropicals, on the other hand, need light and moisture year round. If you dont have a greenhouse, place tropicals in your sunniest window and keep misted, several times a day if possible, to provide the humidity they crave in order to flourish. Grow lights do a fabulous fake of the sun, however, and many tropical pond plants thrive under them.
Marginal pond plants those that grow around the edges, or margins, of a pond can be either hardy or tropical. Some hardy marginals are cattail, plantain, and rush. Tropical marginals include taro, spider lily, and water hibiscus. Of course there are legions more to lust after in both hardy and tropical marginals. Place marginals with their pot tops one to six inches under water. Very tall plants, like cattail, can be moved as deep as a foot beneath the surface one theyve gotten full-sized.
Water lilies, however, like their water deep between 18 and 30 inches after starting the season in the 6-12 shallower end. This gives them a nice, springtime shot of sunshine to get going again. And when the plant pro recommends those funny-looking pots with all the little holes in them, go for it. Pond plants poke their toes (roots) through them to develop tiny, nutrient-extracting feeder roots. Meshing with one another, these roots provide stability and protection against wind, kids, pets, and adults that have a tendency to stumble into them.
Fertilize pond plants when they need them. Ha! you say. And when is that? Well, go back to your plant pro, the Internet, or the plant label you so wisely saved. Each plant may have different requirements, but one rule of thumb: Plants need much more fertilizer in warm-weather months than when its cool outside.
So go have fun with your pond and your plants!
About the author:
Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several other
pond-related websites including MacArthurWatergardens.com
He also publishes a free monthly